A dumpster in Euclid, without the surprises

Start with what the debris is

Construction debris is heavy in a way furniture isn't. Shingles, drywall, broken concrete, and tile sit at the bottom of a container and don't move. A container that's fine for a garage cleanout can be over the weight limit before it's half full of roof tear-off. Before I call anybody, I walk the pile and sort it in my head: what's heavy, what's bulky, what's wet.

Wet is the one people forget. Drywall and lumber soak up rain and gain weight fast. If the container sits in the driveway through a wet stretch, you're paying to haul water. I keep a tarp handy and I don't order the container until the tear-off is actually in a pile.

Look up before you look at the truck

The container comes off a truck that needs room. I walk the driveway and check for branches, power lines, and the sag in the apron where the concrete meets the street. A loaded truck plus a container is heavy, and a driveway that's already cracked will tell you about it afterward.

• Measure the drop zone — the container is longer than it looks and the truck still has to back out.
• Move the cars the night before, including the neighbor's if the street is tight.
• Check for overhead lines, low branches, and a mailbox in the swing path.
• Photograph the driveway before the drop, cracks and all.

What gets turned away

Some things don't go in a construction container no matter who you call. The hauler sets the list, so ask for it in writing before the drop, not after.

• Paint, solvents, and anything with a warning label — those wait for a household hazardous waste day.
• Tires, which float to the top and get refused at the scale.
• Refrigerators, air conditioners, and dehumidifiers, because of the refrigerant.
• Asbestos siding or pipe wrap from an older house — stop and get it tested before it goes in anything.
• Batteries and propane tanks.

The routes that aren't a container

A container isn't always the answer. For a single couch or a dead water heater, the town's bulk pickup may take it. Call the service department and ask what they'll pick up at the curb and how they want it set out.

If you're replacing an appliance, the store that delivers the new one often hauls the old one away. Ask at the counter when you buy. Charities in the area take furniture and household goods, but they want it clean and they schedule ahead, so call and describe what you have.

For a whole house, a hauler who does clear-outs can beat a container plus your own labor, because they sort and donate as they go. Get the walk-through in person.

What to ask before you book

• What size container, and how much weight is included before the overage charge starts?
• How many days can it sit, and what does a swap cost if I need a second one?
• Where can the truck set it down — street, driveway, or alley — and who handles permission if one is needed?
• What can't go in, and can I get that list in writing?
• Do they put boards under the container, and where does the debris end up?
• Who do I call if the container doesn't show?

Fill it level and keep the ticket

A container loaded above the sides can't be tarped or hauled legally, and the driver will refuse it. I keep the load level and I put the heavy material at the bottom, toward the cab end.

Ask for the weight ticket when they haul. If you're over, you'll know why, and you'll know what to do differently on the next one.

Where to go next

• Everyone listed for this job, town by town
• What the furniture you are moving is actually worth
• Need a hand sorting before the truck arrives